30 November 2011

I Love It When A Plan Comes Together

[First, a note about my sometimes non-contemporaneous blogging (since some people have asked):  Originally, I had wanted to write about everything essentially as it happened, however: (1) there isn't always internet access; (2) even if there is, there's often no time to blog in a thoughtful way, especially during staging, orientation, and PST; and (3) time to process hopefully makes for more informative, if not better written, posts.]

Upon reflection and having been through most of PST, I'd say that the Peace Corps has developed a thoughtful and effective process for gradually easing you away from home and immersing you into your country of service.

As I touched on last time, at staging you spend your first, adrenalin-filled night away from the psychological comfort of whatever community you're leaving.  You're rooming with a stranger, which begins to prepare your subconscious for the first of many changes to your personal space, but he or she is an American and you know that you have at least one thing in common to talk about.  Any feelings of unease from the unfamiliar surroundings and impending unknown are hopefully mitigated by forming the foundations of a new community, your Peace Corps community (which, you will be told, will bring with it some of your best friends for the rest of your life).  The substance of the staging program gives you an intellectual preview of and preparation for what's to come.  Meanwhile, you have most of the conveniences of home.  If not more: Our hotel had Select Comfort beds (with the adjustable firmness controls), which I, for one, did not have in my American home.


At orientation, changes to personal space continue: we had three people to a room; six to a suite.  But we were all Americans, and we had gotten to know each other a bit in our travels.  The comforts and conveniences began to get scaled back in comparison to what most of us were probably spoiled with used to in the U.S.  We had a hotel-like bathroom with a western toilet (i.e., not a squat) but no toilet seat.  Since we would soon enough be doing the full squat anyway, I thought of it as preparation and hands-on training, so to speak.   There were other minor inconveniences, such as flies everywhere, basically no internet, no shower curtain, and unreliable hot water and electricity. At the same time, cultural changes started to be introduced: different food, language, etc.  Even though most of the people you see every day are still 44 other American trainees, you work with Host Country National ("HCN") PC staff and have the opportunity to interact with HCN hotel staff.   

In general ("ümümiyyətlə"), it's hard to put into words, but the atmosphere is decidedly different.  There's no question that you're a guest in another country.  For anyone familiar with Italian neorealism, I often felt like I was walking through an Antonioni movie ("kino").  In particular, many of the sights reminded me of Red Desert, which is filled with unconventionally beautiful landscapes.

Anyway, just when you were maybe starting to get used to things, it's time to schlep your bags to your training site.   This time, the strangers with whom you're sharing personal space are Azərbaycani. Luckily, they, too, have undergone training - about what to expect from living with an American for the next three months.  (To sum up: we are apparently very fond of showers and need a certain amount of alone time.)   Most of the day is still spent in training with Americans, but under the community-based training model, it's only a handful of them instead of all 44 trainees at once.  The quantity and degree of cultural change increases dramatically as you integrate, Inşallah (God willing), into your host family in a well-intentioned, but often comic, combination of a few memorized words and phrases, a lot of misunderstandings, and countless gesticulations that would probably be farcical if they weren't so earnest.

Conveniences vary greatly from host fam to host fam, but for many they continue to get scaled back. Generally, there isn't A/C or heat at school ("məktəb") or home ("ev"), so in the winter (we've had snow a couple of times already, which isn't typical), one shouldn't be surprised to keep on all layers while in school or when burrowing into the PC-issue "brown monster" sleeping bag.  If you're lucky, during language class you can huddle next to the portable space heater, whose heating power is usually such that you can cradle it with your bare hands without getting burned.   At home, the bath and toilet ("hamam-tualet") are usually ("adətən") in a structure separate from the house and are, if this is possible, even less insulated.   By way of illustration (and not complaint), my toilet at home has a window that is simply a square hole in the wall, so when the wind blows and there's precipitation, it rains or snows on me while I'm using the facilities.  [Update: after this last snow (on Thanksgiving), a sheet of plastic was nailed over the window hole.]  Although it's not as cozy as sitting on a heated toilet seat in a high-tech Japanese bathroom, it was easy enough to adapt to, and frankly, the first time it happened while I was squatting in sub-zero conditions, I thought, "Hey, cool, snow."

None of us came here unprepared for discomfort, and it's nothing compared to the hardships that other volunteers undergo in other countries.  At least we have (mostly) the basic utilities: running water, gas, electricity, and phones.  There's a reason that service in Azərbaycan has sometimes been referred to as the "Posh Corps."

But, uh, back to the lecture at hand: the process of gradual immersion in an unfamiliar country.  After PST?  Well, we're not there quite yet, but when we move to site in early December ("Dekabr"), we can already see that we will spend the vast majority of our time working and living with HCNs, and we will have substantially less contact with other PCVs.  Some PCVs have no "site-mates," as they're called, while others will have several.  (For example, Gəncə is reputed to have so many PCVs and other ex-pats that there's a risk of living there in a kind of mini-America and failing to really integrate.)  Most of us will probably live within at least two hours of another PCV, but as a matter of course, all of us will be more fully immersed in the language and culture on a day-to-day basis.  And that sounds just about right.

24 November 2011

Training Days

Now that we're almost finished with PST (Pre-Service Training), it seemed like a good time for reflection.  In terms of the process of how I got to where I am now, let's pick up where we left off - receiving the invitation kit.

Next Steps Following Invitation
  1. Within 10 days: Email aspiration statement and updated resume to country desk.  Although invitees may feel like they have already provided much of the requested information, none of that will have been provided to the staff in the host country.  My understanding was that these documents would basically be the host country staff's first impression, so I tried to be extra thorough about editing and spell-checking.

  2. Immediately: Apply for Peace Corps (no-fee) Passport and Visa.  I would summarize the use of the two application forms as follows:

    DS-82.  This should be used by those who have a valid current passport in good condition that was issued after the age of 16.  (The passport must be sent with the form and will be returned at staging.)

    DS-11.   This form should be used by those who do not have a personal passport, a current passport, or those who plan to travel with their personal passport prior to staging.

  3. Approximately 30 days before staging, received more detailed information about staging, hotel information, and instructions for making travel arrangements. 

  4. General housekeeping: Clearance and Qualification - Make sure everything is in order in terms of medical, dental, legal, financial, etc., and provide any requested information promptly.

  5. Read the Welcome Book, which is specific to the host country, and the Volunteer Handbook.
Pre-Departure Preparations

Packing and re-packing was one of the most time-consuming of pre-departure tasks.   

Luggage Restrictions:
  • 1 check-in bag measuring no more than 45 inches (standard carry-on length by width by height)
  • 2 checked bags measuring no more than 107 inches for both bags combined
  • The larger checked bag may not measure more than 62 inches
  • Each checked bag must weigh 50 pounds or less
  • 1 personal item such as a purse, laptop bag, or briefcase
Future PCVs: Double-check your particular airline's restrictions, as they may vary, and make sure your bags fit within the most restrictive guidelines among the domestic and international legs of your itinerary.*

Or you can just pay the overage fees.

*These restrictions, as with all information discussed here, are subject to change.

My Packing List, more or less:

LuggageClothing and Shoes
Backpack14 pairs of underwear
Carry-on7 undershirts
Suitcase5 pair dress socks
Convertible Rolling and Hiking Backpack4 pair winter socks
Messenger bag 6 pair regular socks
Personal Care Items 2 sets of long underwear
2 pairs of glasses 1 fleece
All contacts 1 down jacket
2 bottles of contact lens solution 1 rain shell
4 toothbrushes 1 pair of glove liners + gloves
2 spools of floss 2 suits
2 tubes of toothpaste 3 dress shirts
1 neti pot and kosher salt 6 ties
1 dental pick and scraper 1 pair of jeans
1 deodorant stone 2 pairs of khakis
2 deodorant sticks 4 T-shirts
2 travel-size hand sanitizer 1 dress sweater
1 electric shaver 2 sets of pajamas
1 razor 2 belts
All razor blades 5 long-sleeve button-downs
Sunblock 1 pair of earmuffs
Mosquito repellant 1 scarf
Nail clippers 1 pair of dress shoes
Baby wipes 1 pair of running shoes
72 NyQuil gelcaps 1 pair of cowboy boots (ropers)
Neosporin 1 pair of hiking sandals
Antihistamine 1 pair of winter slippers
Linens Kitchen
1 sleeping bag (approx. 40° F) 1 can opener
1 sleeping bag liner Assorted Ziploc bags
2 pillow cases 1 soft water bottle
1 compressible pillow 1 set of measuring spoons
1 regular pillow Electronics
2 flat sheets Laptop
3 travel towels (S, M, L) Camera
Gifts Voltage converter
Texas-themed keychains, postcards, and pins 2 plug adapters
Bolo with the State Seal of Texas Rechargeable batteries and charger
Book of pictures of Texas Flash drives
Small bottles of bubbles with wands, you know, for kids External hard drive
Miscellaneous Travel mouse
2 Multi-tools (regular and pocket-sized) Travel clock
Duct tape Headlamp
Tide stain stick Kindle
Various compression bags and sacks Blackberry
Sewing kit
Packable tote bag
Travel clothes line
Sunglasses
Fine-tip pens
Yoga gear: 1 towel, 2 straps, and 3 pair injinji socks

Tips for Future PCVs

Things that I didn't need to bring right away or haven't used much:
  • Extra toothbrushes and toothpaste.  There's plenty here in the shops.  However, I didn't have time to go shopping in the first couple of weeks, so enough to get by for just a little while would have been fine.
  • Flat sheets.  I hear that these will come in handy if and when you move out on your own, but I haven't found them necessary so far during PST.  In all likelihood, your host family will take care of bedding, etc.
  • Rechargeable batteries.  Before departure, I bought new batteries for my headlamp, watch, and travel clock, etc., so I haven't needed to replace them yet.  I expect rechargeables to be useful in the long run, but they could easily be put in a care package later.
  • Scarf.  Unless you have a favorite scarf that you want to bring, there are plenty to choose from here.
  • Dress sweater.  I'm not a sweater person, so I have yet to use it. 
  • Water bottle.  So far, using plastic bottles of water I buy at the shops has worked just fine.
Things that I wish I had packed:
  • Galoshes!  I had read that it gets rainy and muddy in the winter, so I had planned on having a pair sent to me (which I did). However, it can get very muddy here upon arrival in the fall.  I survived, but it would have been useful to have made room for them from the outset.
  • More floss.  Although you can probably find any toothbrush and toothpaste you want, floss is scarce and a little pricey.  (The PC medkit has floss in it, but it isn't waxed, breaks more easily than, say, Crest Glide, and is prone to cutting your gums.)
  • More plug adapters.  It would have been good to bring a couple of extra plug adapters because the electricity is temperamental and much of the infrastructure is old and often poorly maintained.  For example, when I plug devices into the wall socket, I often hear (and sometimes see) the sparks continuously arcing between the socket and the prongs of the plug.  It looks and sounds disconcertingly like a plasma globe.  Minus the protective layer of glass between you and the purple electricity.
Things that I have found remarkably useful or am otherwise glad that I packed:
  • Waterproof dress shoes.  These Rockports have been a lifesaver on rainy days, which have been quite common.  (And, no, I have no affiliation with Rockport or its subsidiaries.)
  • Headlamp.  Listen to PCV blogosphere on this one. It's not the most fashion-forward of accessories, but you'll be glad you have one when the power goes out.  Which it will.
  • Packable tote bag.  PST, staging, and especially orientation are chock-full of handouts, supplies, and other materials, so it's been useful to have an extra bag that didn't take up much space on the way here.  Come to think of it, I could probably use a packable duffel and day-pack, too.
  • Travel clothesline.  I hang mine in my room, where it can be more convenient to dry small batches of laundry because it is: (1) not an imposition on my host family, and (2) not exposed to the elements.
  • NyQuil and antihistamine.  It's almost inevitable that you will get sick at some point during your service, and a bit of your preferred cold medication takes up little space.
  • Hiking Sandals.  These have been invaluable because my tualet-hamam (toilet/bath) is outside in an enclosure separate from the main house.  They're easy to slip on and off but have enough traction for various ground/floor conditions. 
  • Blackberry.  I use this extensively to take notes, listen to music, take snapshots, organize to-do lists, calendar deadlines, and keep a list of useful Azərbaycani phrases.  And I'm this close to figuring out how to get an English-AZ dictionary on it.
Other:
  • Notify credit card companies and banks of travel plans.
  • Language: I'm glad that I took the time to learn some basic phrases for greetings and goodbyes, which are very important here, but that I spent the rest of my free time hanging out with friends and family and eating at my favorite restaurants.
  • Travel arrangements: Registration for staging was at noon on Thursday, September 22, and the only flight that morning would have been the red-eye arriving at 11 am or something.  Luckily, SATO Travel agreed that this would not allow room for delays or other unforeseen problems, so they kindly offered to fly me in (and arrange for accommodation at PC expense) the day before.
  • Host Family and Language Questionnaire, which will ask about: (1) any dietary restrictions or allergies that might relate to host family placement, and (2) a self-assessment of your language-learning style and ability, which relates to placement in a language cluster.  While PC takes your answers into consideration, they are not determinative and PC cannot necessarily honor stated preferences.
Staging and Departure

Staging was led by a great team, Hannah (Staging Coordinator) and Jessica (Staging Director).

The agenda was roughly as follows:

22 SEP 2011 - Staging (I don't remember the exact times...)
  • 12:00-13:00 - Registration, sign in, receive PC passport (and get personal passport back, if applicable), fill out forms.  (This is when we officially became PCTs (Peace Corps Trainees).)
  • 13:00-15:30 - Who We Are.  What's Expected of You.
  • 15:30-16:00 - Break
  • 16:00-18:15 - What to Expect.  What's Next.  Logistics and Conclusion.
  • Dinner.
Staging mainly consisted of: (1) icebreakers and general information, (2) expectation management, and (3) logistics.

I. Getting to Know You

The first of many icebreakers involved going around the room one by one, introducing ourselves (name and hometown), and sharing something that we knew (or were excited) about Azərbaycan.  The second was filling out a twenty-question trivia/scavenger hunt list to elicit more information from each other, such as, who is vegetarian, speaks more than one language, checked only one bag (go Jeannette!), does yoga, etc.  There would be many more icebreakers in the weeks to come, but I'm glad we had a variety of them because they are exactly the kind of activity that could be used to kick off a conversation club or be shared with HCNs (host country nationals) for use in their own projects.

[Sidebar: One thing we learned about ourselves as a group was that there were supposed to be more of us.  Apparently, 48 PCTs were expected, but only 44 showed up at Staging.  Later, I heard from some very disappointed Azərbaycanis who had really been looking forward to being host families, and I had to explain with my limited language skills that I knew no more about the matter than they did.]

As we got to know each other, we also got to know Peace Corps by going over introductory medical, security, and transportation matters.

II. What to Expect When You're Expecting (to Become a PCV)

The misalignment of expectations and what actually happens is the source of much unhappiness and conflict, whether it's our expectations of others, others' expectations of us, or our expectations of ourselves.  Given the magnitude of the PC commitment, it's in the best interests of both PC and the PCTs to clarify expectations, so Jessica's interactive presentations reviewed PC's 3 Goals and 10 Core Expectations and helped us articulate our own goals, anxieties, and plans.

I would characterize many of the anxieties as the flip side of (or capable of being mitigated by pursuing) our goals.

Common AnxietiesGoals
Difficulty with the languageTo learn the language (Goal 3)
Will my stomach be okay with the diet?To (learn to) cook my own food / cook for my host family (Goals 2 and 3)
Living in a fishbowlTo integrate into the community
Gender IssuesTo lead by example and/or share the benefits of empowering women (Goal 2)
Theft
Squat ToiletTo master the squat (Goal 3?)
HomesicknessTo make friends with Azərbaycanis and feel at home in-country
Can I do this?To fulfill my PC mission (Goals 1 through 3)

III.  Logistics

Logistics involved filling out paperwork and receiving ATM cards for withdrawing funds to cover meals and incidental expenses during travel and upon settling in.

For our last dinner in the States, a group of us went to the Cheesecake Factory, where I somehow managed to restrain myself and order the grilled salmon with fresh vegetables, which turned out to be a good call since I've seen no signs of salmon here so far (certainly not at an affordable price) and no broccoli.  Also, I've heard that the sushi isn't very good because all fish must be flown in frozen.  Guess what I'm having when I get back to the states.

Wrap Text around Image
23 SEP 2011 - Departure

* 08:00 - Checkout
* 08:30 - Boarding for Bus to JFK
* 17:05 - Delta Flight 72 from JFK to Istanbul.

Before checking out, I enjoyed a last breakfast on American soil for a long while consisting of hearty helpings of oatmeal, bacon, scrambled eggs, fresh fruit, bacon, sausages, roasted potatoes, and did I mention bacon?

24 SEP 2011 - In Transit

* 10:15 - Arrive in Istanbul.
* Quest for wifi.
* 14:15 - Turkish Airlines Flight 334 from Istanbul to Bakı, arriving 19:00 local time.
* Bus to Hotel Bavarius in Mərdekan (suburb of Bakı).
    On the plane from Istanbul, it turned out that I was sitting next to an Azərbaycani couple.  After a deep breath, I dove into the little Azərbaycani I had learned memorized.  "Salam" (Hello) and "Mənim adım Daviddir" (My name is David) went okay, but we didn't get much farther than that.  When I tried to explain that "biz Sülh Korpusu Könüllüsüyük" (We are Peace Corps Volunteers (I didn't know the word for "trainees" yet)), they seemed to think I was speaking English and stopped listening after "biz," at which point they helpfully offered that perhaps I was talking about "bizness?" No, I shook my head and gestured to the people around me to indicate that I meant "we," but to no avail.  After working out that we could not resort to communicating in any other languages (between me and the husband, we spoke six languages, three apiece, but there was no overlap), we smiled awkwardly, shrugged, and settled in for the in-flight entertainment.

    At the airport, we were greeted by the PC welcome team, consisting of staff and current PCVs.  Since I was bleary-eyed from having had only fitful, airplane-quality sleep, I don't remember much except for the awesome outfits worn by the AZ8 PCV Welcome Committee: Blue track suit jackets with white, Addidas-like piping emblazoned with the Azərbaycani flag, national emblem, and "AZƏRBAYCAN" in big blue, red, and green letters across the back + matching track-suit bottoms.  Undoubtedly, this will become part of my wardrobe before long.  (Coincidentally, I would later meet the AZ7 who started this tradition during my site visit, but that's another story.)  

    On the bus ride to the hotel, Peace Corps thankfully had provided brown-bag dinners.  Inside was a sub-sandwich with good-but-indeterminate contents (I remember some tomato (AZ: "pomidor"), water ("su"), fruit ("meyvə"), and a Snickers ("Snikers"), which I managed to save for a good five weeks or so before succumbing to a craving for it.  It's not that there are Snickers no here (they're about 65 cents a bar) or that I have a particular fondness for Snickers.  I just wanted to see how long I could go without really craving an American food.

    Anyway, I don't know about everyone else, but I was dog-tired by the time we settled into the hotel.  Nevertheless, I had a fun talk with Josh, Katie, Jim, Xayal, and Emin before hitting the sack.  In addition to exchanging the usual background information, we talked about astrology, voodoo, and whether we could drink the water.  Somewhat ironically, all the PCVs said that they drink the water, but the Azərbaycanis said they did not.

    As I fell asleep, I swear I heard the sounds of drag racing echoing down the street, which had been preceded by a random display of fireworks in the lot that was under construction next door.

    To be continued... (Coming soon: Orientation and PST)


    01 November 2011

    The Color of Pul

    In Azərbaycani, "money" is translated as, appropriately enough, "pul."  The unit of currency is the "manat" (AZN).  As of the date of this post, 1 manat = approx. 1.27 USD.  100 qəpik = 1 manat (reminder; "q" sounds like a "g" and "ə" sounds like the "a" in "cat.").



    Consumer Basket 

    Item Approximate Cost (in USD)
    Basic Foodstuffs
    Water 65 cents / 2L bottle
    Milk 90 cents / L
    Eggs $3 / dozen
    Flour 50 cents / kilo
    Beef $10.30 / kilo
    Lamb $13 / kilo
    Pizza (7") $6.50
    Oatmeal $1.95 / 15 oz.
    Döner (like a gyro) $1.30
    Bread 40 cents / loaf
    Coke 65 cents / bottle
    Average Monthly Salary
    Baku (excl. ex-pats) $615
    In the Regions $270
    Services and Utilities
    Utilities (Gas, Electricity, Water) $70 / month
    Haircut $3.60 for men's cut
    Basic Internet (DSL) $26 / mo.
    Satellite TV $130 for the satellite dish
    Transportation
    Taxi from Baku to Sumqayit (approx. 20 mi) $10
    Gas 75 cents / L
    Miscellaneous
    Movie ticket (Int'l release) $11
    Cigarettes 90 cents per pack
    University Tuition $1300 per year



    The bills I've seen are the 50, 20, 10, 5, and 1 manat bills.   Coins come in 50, 20, 10, 5, 3, and 1 qəpik.

    NB: This is not my money, which was borrowed for the purpose of taking pictures for this blog. Our PCT disbursements are a fraction of this.

    The back of all these bills have a map of Azərbaycan and a small map of Europe, representing Azərbaycan's integration into Europe, along with various different decorative elements depending on the denomination of the bill.

    The front of the 1 ("bir") manat bill reflects images of some national instruments of Azərbaycan: the Tar, Kamança, and Daf, against a background of ancient carpet patterns.

    The back of the 1 manat bill show various national ornaments.  And you can't see it, but the watermark is a bud of fire.
    The front of the 5 ("beş") manat bill reflects images of Azərbaycani literary figures, part of the state anthem in the lower right-hand corner, and a stack of ancient books. 
    The back of the 5 manat bill reflects the development written language in Azərbaycan: Qobustan rock hieroglyphs, Orhon-Yenisei script alphabet, and contemporary Azərbaycani writing.  The watermark is an open book and a quill pen.
    The front of the 10 ("on") manat bill shows Old Baku, Shirvanshah's Palace, and Maiden Tower against a background of the Inner City (Içeri Şeher) wall.
    The back of the 10 manat bill reflects some typical Azərbaycani carpet patterns.  The watermark is Maiden Tower.
    The front of the 20 ("iyirmi") manat bill reflects symbols of power in the form of a traditional Azərbaycani military sword, shield, and helmet.
    The back of the 20 manat bill reflects a symbol for peace.
    The front of the 50 ("əlli") manat bill show symbols of the Azərbaycan's future: young people, stairs symbolizing progress, the sun, and chemical and mathematical symbols, representing modern science.
    The back of the 50 manat bill shows more ornamental designs from ancient Azərbaycani carpets.
    The most common coins I've used are the 50, 20, and 10 qəpik coins.

    The back of the 20 qəpik coin depicts geometric symbols and a spiral staircase, representing architecture and mathematics.

    The subjects of these images are not objects of copyright according to "The Law of Azerbaijan Republic On Copyright and Neighboring Right." No.: 115-1Q (June 5, 1996).